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Contents of this page:
Protea Banks
¦ The Sardine Run ¦ Whale Watching ¦ Protea Dive Facts ¦
Budget Accomodation

April 2000


Cause for celebration - Not only the first Manta Ray of Dive The Dream trip, but also the first Mark has ever seen

After leaving Margate and Protea Banks pretty much disappointed last September, we received an email from African Dive Adventures bragging about the 300 Hammerheads they'd been diving with 3 weeks later........ We just had to come back.

This time the ocean was on our side. We did 10 dives mainly on the Southern Pinnacles and our regular dive buddies were 2 metre Zambezi Sharks, schools of adult Scalloped Hammerheads and large Shovelnosed Rays (some call them Guitar or Sand Sharks). A large Manta Ray surprised us on one dive and Mark just happened to be in the right place to take this lovely shot of it during it's 10 second inspection of us.

The Banks

Protea Banks in season
Zambezi Shark and Remoras
Photo by Trevor Krull

Protea Banks lie approximately 8km offshore from Shelly Beach, near Margate. Only Advanced Divers should attempt diving here as the reef begins at 30 metres. If you're fit it helps as the currents can be strong at times. Stretching over 10km, the area for diving is concentrated on the higher pinnacles (Northern and Southern) which cover approximately 3km.

Protea Banks is not yet a protected area or Marine Reserve. The numbers of sharks that visit this area have been tremendous but they're apparently on a decline. Likely causes are mainly the long liners and the finning trade (Sharks Fin Soup); other contributors are the Shark nets placed by the Natal Sharks Board to create safe bathing; Gamefishing - a very popular sport in this area. While diving Protea, we heard the latest 'tough guy' story of a champion spearfisherman who proudly bragged about his shooting 5 adult Zambezi Sharks with a powerhead (spears that explode on impact) because they were eating all 'his' fish. They did not stand a chance. This is apparently an illegal practice but in order to convict, you must catch someone in the act. Keep your eyes peeled and camera at the ready.

 

The Sardine Run

This mass migration occurs in June when the sardines head north from the Cape. Miles upon miles of shoals of sardines meet about 40km south of Kwazulu Natal Border. These shoals eventually break out and travel north, hugging the Natal coastline. Right on the tails of these shoals are, the predators; Humpback Whales, Bottlenose and Common Dolphins, Sharks, Turtles, Game fish, and a host of Marine Birds: White Chinned Petrels, Cape Gannets, Storm Petrels and Albatross to name a few. Call us slightly deranged if you like but we are aiming to dive with the sardines and hope to catch the action on camera for the site. See Sardine Run page for latest updates.

 

Boat based Whale Watching

The waters surrounding Southern Africa boast 40 different kinds of marine mammal. Boat based whale and dolphin watching is fast becoming one of South Africa's most popular tourist industries. Humpbacks are the most frequently seen in Kwazulu Natal.

Wayne Harrison - Kwazulu Natal Boat based Whale Watching.  Click here to visit Wayne's website

Wayne Harrisson is a recommended SATOUR registered whale watching guide for the South Coast of Natal. Launching from Shelly Beach, Wayne provides a very informative and enjoyable trip.

Working closely with the Natal Shark's Board, he helps to monitor the movements and behaviour of the cetaceans along the south coast.

The Humpback Whales move North from Antarctica to mate and breed in the warmer waters of Southern Mozambique before beginning their return journey south in late August. Between May and September, Humpbacks can be seen close to shore along the Natal coastline.
For further details on the marine mammals of South Africa and the Cape Whale Route, visit www.mtn.co.za/whaleroute/
Humpback Whale's Tail shown as it dives into the depths.

Although slightly more expensive than other 'pleasure trips' in this area, you will find that the price is justified by his extensive knowledge of the marine mammals and his passion for marine conservation.

Email: wayden@venturenet.co.za or visit www.webfoot.co.za/kznwhale

Dive Facts

Location Protea Banks, off Shelly Beach, near Margate - Hibiscus Coast
Dive Centre Recommendation

African Dive Adventures is the longest standing dive centre in the area. Started in 1994 by Trevor Krull (who has now moved to Barra Lodge, Mozambique) the dive operation has now been taken over by Roland, Beulagh and Spike (Roland has incidently moved from Barra Lodge, Mozambique!). All dives are led by experienced guides. Costs at time of writing were 80R (£8) per dive or 140R (£14)including full equipment. Highly recommended. See website for details or email: afridive@iafrica.com - or Tel. 082 456 7885 from SA.

Best Time to see Sharks Due to the Sardine Run, there are no sharks on Protea Banks or Aliwal Shoal during June. The Ragged Tooth Sharks begin to arrive July time and by August and September there are sometimes hundreds of them. Late September sees the arrival of Scalloped Hammerheads and by October/ November, they are schooling in their hundreds. Little Zambezi sharks can also be seen around this time of year. The large shoals of gamefish come in January and from then on the life is abundant, including big Zambezis, until May. April/ May are the best months for diving Protea Banks however try and avoid the easter weekend. Diver soup images spring to mind.
Water Temp Between 17(September) - 24 (April) degrees celcius with a few icy thermoclines.
Exposure Protection In September, we were wimps and got out our dry suits after seeing our computers reach a chilly 14 degrees from one thermocline. However, obviously hardened up a bit after diving around Africa, we managed a one piece 5mm with hood for all dives in April. Well OK, we're not tough, the water was in fact a very warm 24 degrees.
Max diving depth 40 metres but the average depth of the reef is between 29 - 35m.
Possible Marine Encounters Spotted Ragged Tooth Sharks from July to September, Zambezi Shark from Oct (little ones) through to May (biggies), Schooling Scalloped Hammerhead Sharks in late September/October, Potato Basse, Gamefish arrives January through to April/May. Large Sandsharks and Black Spotted Ribbontail Rays are common in April/May; Eagle Rays and Manta Rays also seen.

Comments:
Dive Briefings here are most thorough we have ever heard. As the diving is much more challenging than your usual reef dives, the briefing made us feel very confident in our dive guide's ability and control of a group. All the dives are to 30+ metres so the bottom time using air is minimal. A Nitrox qualification is highly recommended as extended bottom time means you'll be able to hang out for longer in places like Sandshark Gulley where we saw up to 20+ sharks at one time. Most of the action usually happens mid water on the gradual ascent. If you are going to dive here, make sure you are very comfortable about hanging around mid water on the lookout for passing traffic.

We did 10 dives on the Banks and our regular dive buddies were 2 metre Zambezi Sharks, schools of adult Scalloped Hammerheads mid-water and large Shovelnosed Rays (some call them Guitar or Sand Sharks) cruising just above the sandy bottom. A large Manta Ray surprised us on one dive and Mark just happened to be in the right place to take a lovely shot of it during it's 10 second inspection of us. Also spotted at this time of year are large Black Ribbontail Rays and Eagle Rays on and around the reef.

The reef itself is not all that barren but the dives you do here are specifically to look for sharks. You'll get a slap from the DM if you start staring at angelfish or nudibranchs and rightly so because you'll have just missed 30 Hammerheads trotting past your fins!

A mind blowing dive spot if you're lucky enough to bump fins with the big stuff. Recommended that you do not visit here for just one or two dives. Maybe one is enough but to give yourself a better chance of meeting sharks, prepare for at least 4 or 5 dives.

 

Budget Accommodation

As usual looking for the cheapest places to pitch our tent, we came across Margate Backpackers in Collis Road, Manaba, between Shelly Beach and Margate. A lovely spot to chill out after diving, only 10 minute drive from Shelly Beach and 2 minute walk from Margate Beach. Large garden with huge advocado trees to camp under; fires built most evenings, braai when the mood takes you; swedish hostess Ulrika is very welcoming and offers the first beer on the house. Internet access and bar on site. Clean kitchen and bathrooms; Ulrika has never had a problem with security. Just take a couple of ear plugs to shut out the dogs barking!
Cost to camp: 50R per night for 2 people
Dorms, double and single rooms available.
Contact: Ulrika on 039 312 2176

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A rare Albino Bottlenose Dolphin spotted off Shelly Beach. Humpback Whale breaching just 4km off Shelly Beach