Port
Elizabeth is the gateway to the famous 'Garden Route'. An ideal location
for those wanting to combine a diving holiday with a coastal tour along
some of the most stunning coastal scenery South Africa has to offer
- Read our next update for information on Tsitsikamma National Park
and Knysna. The diving at Port Elizabeth was quite a revelation to us.
PE dive sites had not really featured in many of the publications we
had read and we were unprepared for the colorful soft corals and abundant
variety of marine life, including a mass of nudibranches, big schools
of dolphins, penguins, whales, ragged tooth, pyjama and leopard sharks.
(Great Whites and Hammerheads have also been spotted here).
The
diving is split into two regions - 'Inside the Bay' and 'The Wild Side'.
There are also a couple of stunning but rarely dived offshore reefs.
All areas house some fantastic dive sites. 'The
Wild Side'
is presently only accessible through the very friendly and welcoming
Noordhoek Dive Club or 'WildSide Divers' as they prefer to be known.
We were invited by Eric Stone to join the club dives for the weekend
on our second visit in July 2000. After the first dive at Gasmic,
we excitedly told other divers about our 12 metre visibility, the rare
horsefish and a blue ray posing perfectly on sand in Gasmic Gorge. Oddly
enough we found that no-one wanted to speak to us for a good while afterwards!
It was a top class dive and we were reminded once again as to why our
log book last year was brimming with enthusiasm for the colourful diving
around Port Elizabeth. The many
gulleys and overhangs on most of the reefs inside and outside the bay
make the dives an exciting place for the curious.
The weather is pretty temperamental here
and you must be prepared for low visibility and chilly water. These
factors should not deter you however, as your torch will light up the
incredible reef colours and you'll be wearing lots of rubber... what
more can you possibly need? We came back for more and can guarantee
that we will return. We would strongly advise you to give PE a try.
|
| Location |
Port
Elizabeth |
| Sites
dived |
In
the bay: Bell Buoy, Haarlem Wreck. Further offshore: Rie
Banks.
The Wild Side Reefs: Gasmic, Avalanche, Thunderbolt.
|
Dive
Centre Recommendation
|
We
dived with Pro Dive, a dive
centre with a great vibe, run by two young PADI Instructors, Michelle
Glass and Louis Van Aardt. Their dedication and enthusiasm for the
diving around PE was infectious and the consideration for their
clients has won them a loyalty throughout the
local area. As the ocean is teeming with very photogenic life, Michelle,
herself a keen u/w photographer also runs the u/w photography specialty
course for budding enthusiasts.
Pro
Dive, located at the unmissable Red Windmill, Hobie Beach, has 2
Rigid Inflatable Boats, equipment rental and servicing on site and
they dive every day, weather permitting. Other diving options include
shark diving in the tank at the local oceanarium. For large groups
visiting PE they can arrange accomodation and excursions to nearby
game parks. See Prodive's comprehensive website
for details on all services.
To dive
the 'Wild Side' email Eric Stone
or Peter '10 Bar' Michaelides
of Wild Side Divers. Although they are not a charter operation
they will accept guests on board the boats for minimal charge to
cover costs of petrol. Club members will naturally take priority.
|
| Nearest
Launch Sites |
Hobie
Beach for 'Inside the Bay' and Noordhoek Ski Boat Club for 'The Wild
Side'. |
| Best
Time to Dive |
With the Westerlies in Winter. Locals dive year round but find September
through to mid November has the most unpredictable weather. |
| Water
Temp |
16-20
degrees celcius in the bay / 8 - 14 degrees on the Wild Side. The
water temperature tends to cool in summer time (October - March). |
| Visibility |
Average
5-6metres. Up to 15 metres on a good day. |
| Exposure
Protection |
You'll
start shivering after half an hour (unless you're really tough) in
several layers of 5mm with hoods and gloves. Although this is the
local norm we'd advise that you stick to your drysuit, hood and gloves
if you have one. Half an hour is just not enough time to appreciate
these beautiful reefs. |
| Average
diving depth |
Bell Buoy / Haarlem - 18 / 20metres. Most other dives are classed
as Advanced Dives. Average depth 30metres with erratic currents and
reasonably strong surge. |
|
Possible Marine Encounters |
Leopard
Shy Sharks and Pyjama Shy Sharks (both types of Dogfish), Ragged Tooth
Sharks, Red Romans, Juvenille Hammerhead Sharks in December/January.
Regular boat-based sightings of Dolphins, Jackass Penguins, Southern
Right Whales in Winter, Humpback Whales all summer. |
The
Dive Sites:
Inside The Bay, recommended sites are Phillips
Reef, Haarlem Wreck, Devils Reef (Shore Dive) and Bell Buoy.
The water is generally cleaner than on the Wild Side and the seas
calmer. All the reefs are perfect for macro photography despite
low visibility. The Haarlem Wreck is small but full of colourful
life. Pyjama sharks can be found in dark corners lazily flopped
over each other in a heap. The reefs are bright and colourful, good
for night dives. On Bell Buoy (July), Mark was unwittingly
'buzzed' while lining up a shot of a large basket star. Thinking
it was Charlie being clumsy, he turned around ready to give her
what for and came face to face with a small but very inquisitive
Ragged Tooth Shark who also seemed to want to check the composition
of his shot through the lens!
The outer reefs and those on the Wild Side are
for the more advanced diver due to challenging currents and depth.
These are pristine reefs with Hard and Soft Corals and once again,
lots of 'little' life ie. colourful Nudibranches and Anemones.
The Wild Side: Bright red palmate sea fans,
purple and orange soft corals, large pink anemones and huge Gas
Flame Nudibranches cover the reefs. Dramatic walls, gulleys and
overhangs all in full technicolour. Brighter than any tropical hard
corals, the colours seemed as if they'd been carefully painted in
the torchlight beam. The water was a bit chilly at 14 degrees Celsius
and although we suffered after 20minutes in 2 piece 5mm wetsuits,
we emerged beaming from ear to ear. The following day, we dived
a site called Avalanche, along the same stretch of reef as
Gasmic. More interesting rock formations and gulleys carpeted
with colourful sponges, fans, anemones. One high vertical wall round
the back of the reef held many dark crevices and hidey holes which
are apparently a regular hangout for the horsefish. On all of these
reefs it is quite likely to find leopard dogfish and pyjama sharks,
red romans (rock cod) and large shoals of fish. The surge can get
quite strong and visibility averages out at 4/5metres. With so much
colour around, you must take a torch to really appreciate it.
Rie Banks: A beautiful spot rarely dived due
to the reef being 22km from shore. Luckily this time around the
weather was in our favour, the seas calm and the sun appeared from
ime to time to light up the reef. A wide expanse of deep reef that
rises to 17/18metres and drops to 60m in some places. Stunning seascape
which seemed to stretch for miles. Visibility is generally good
- we saw 15m and were ecstatic. When both owners of the dive centre
jump on board with scuba gear and cameras, you get the feeling you're
in for a great dive. Highly recommended dive if the seas are calm.
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